Ferran Adria: The Best Is Yet To Come

Colman Andrews has written an insightful biography, that only he could have written, about the meteoritic career of Ferran Adria in Ferran: The Inside Story of El Bulli and the Man Who Reinvented Food. 

If you’ve had your ear tuned to the culinary network, you’re sure to have heard of foam and deconstruction as terms for all that’s new in the world of cuisine.

And though few would deny the creativity of this legendary chef, Andrews goes deeper in a tour de force that traces the little known stories in Ferran’s life that have led to his greatest achievements and frustrations.

Unlike a James Beard, Ferran did not discover meaningful cuisine in his mother’s kitchen or like a Julia Child in a great culinary school. Instead, he began in an entrance level job that his father arranged for him through a family friend when he dropped out of school.  Ferran learned enough at that kitchen job and others to be able to work as a cook in the home of a Spanish admiral when drafted.

Once discharged from the military, Ferran went looking for another kitchen job – hopefully one that didn’t require too much work so that, like any young man, he could party and drink (ideally with friends and a lovely lady or two).

Then fate intervened.  A friend mentioned a small restaurant located above a beach called El Bulli (named for the original German owners’ bulldogs).  If the story were a Hollywood script, the next chapters would be all about fame and fortune – how Ferran became tagged with the title “the world’s great chef”.

But Andrews, who spent months interviewing Ferran, listening in his kitchen and observing in his working culinary studio - El Tallers, goes further.  He documents how Ferran first discovered new techniques re-thinking traditional kitchen tools and then adopting stabilizers and thickeners long known to pastry chefs into stunning new applications within main courses.

Colman charts the raising awareness of Ferran’s innovative creations among culinary professionals – both positively and negatively.  He examines the price of fame even when it isn’t wanted.

The book ends with a question – what will Ferran do next?  Ferran has announced that in 2011 he will take a two year hiatus from his now world famous restaurant.  Will he travel, teach, discover more that is new?  Return to tradition?

One can only hope that whatever path Ferran chooses to follow, Andrews will be there to write volume number two about this amazing chef’s creativity and courage in kitchen.  Bravo and well done!  

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2010

Cedarbrook Lodge: A Hidden Treasure of the Pacific Northwest

Each year TripAdvisor totals up the guest reviews submitted by travelers on over 53,000 properties and announces which hotel is rated as simply the best in America.  You might think that the winner would always be a large brand name chain hotel (and sometimes it is).

But this year guest reviewers raved instead about a much smaller property - Cedarbrook Lodge, a Northwest cameo hotel open less than a year.  

Located on 18 acres of breath-takingly beautiful wetlands yet only five minutes from Sea-Tac International Airport, this peaceful property is the very definition of elegant hospitality.

Direct by General Manager Greg Bye, each guest room is modern yet warm and inviting.  Unexpected amenities, including complimentary Haagen-Dazs ice cream and environmentally sensitive bath bars, let you know that your stay will be all that you could wish for.  The thoughtful contemporary art and modern meeting spaces will exceed the expectations of even the most discerning guest.

Floor-to-ceiling windows and open covered walkways create an atmosphere of grace and ease. That feeling is continued in Copperleaf, Cedarbrook’s remarkable restaurant.

Each course is a culinary marvel all crafted under the watchful direction of Culinary Director Roy Breilman and Executive Chef Mark Bodinet.

Their philosophy of cuisine as experience permeates each flavor savored.       

The restaurant is small (only 13 tables) by choice.  Memorable experiences shouldn’t be rushed or crowded.  Servers are attentive but not intrusive – smiling and informed.  When complimented, they thank both Chef Mark and Roy Brelman for creating the environment that makes their service possible.

Beside the fireplace looking out on a stunning garden one has the feeling that you’ve been invited, no, welcomed into an elegant home by great friends to relax and enjoy the best that life can offer.  

No wonder guests have raved to TripAdvisor about their find.  This remarkable property will not be a secret for long.  Whether you are thinking ahead to the holidays or traveling to Seattle for business, do not miss experiencing the difference that is simply the best – Cedarbrook Lodge.  

You will not be disappointed.

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2010

Chef John Sarich: The Master Matchmaker of Chateau Ste Michelle

The Washington State wine industry is truly blessed by the many remarkable chefs who have chosen to make the beautiful Pacific Northwest their professional home. Chief among them is Chef John Sarich, the Culinary Director of Chateau Ste Michelle.

Chef Sarich is an exceptionally skilled master of matching food and wine together. Whether overseeing his staff as they welcome hundreds of guests to the summer concerts at Chateau Ste Michelle or conducting wine seminars aboard the legendary Cunard Cruise Line, his insightful combinations of wine and food enhance and enrich each culinary experience.

Yet as one walks the stunning grounds of the Chateau Ste Michelle winery just north of Seattle with Chef Sarich, he is quick to give credit to the many individuals who created the Washington State wine story.

Wine vines were first introduced to Washington State in the 1860s by Italian and German immigrants who planted their vines in the drier eastern half side of the state. There they discovered that the longer sunlight hours (two more hours per day than in California) and the more consistent temperatures could produce a unique harvest and remarkable wines.

But all production stopped in 1916 when Washington State became one of the first states to enact Prohibition. Healthy vines were plowed under and the entire state went dry. Oh sad days! Then there was the Great Depression and World War II to survive and still no wine.

But you can't keep a great state down. By the mid-1950s, the grandfather of the Washington wine industry, Dr. Walter Clore, working at Washington State University, rediscovered how well the state's weather and soil suited the production of great wines.  Chateau Ste Michelle was created not longer after that in 1954 when the National Wine Company and the Pomerelle Wine Company merged.

The original warehouse space quickly became inappropriate to receive the many new wine fans seeking to learn more. The decision was made to purchase the elegant French-style chateau built by the lumber baron Frederick Stimson as the new operation base for Chateau Ste Michelle winery.

That was the beginning and Chef Sarich was there walking the grounds, envisioning what would be not merely wine, but wine WITH food the way wine has always meant to be enjoyed. Some beverages like vodka and rum, to mention only a few, can be enjoyed solo without food and even without companionship. 

But wine is different: wine was meant to be enjoyed with friends and foods that widen and extend not only the wine but also the experience.

That meaningful sense of experience enabled Chef Sarich to move from working as a young wine guide at Chateau Ste Michelle to being today a master chef known throughout the culinary world for his dedication to memorable dining.

If you are lucky enough to live in the Pacific Northwest or visit there, be sure to contact Chateau Ste Michelle and inquire about events, tastings and tours.

You will sense the care and commitment that Chef Sarich and all the staff at winery give to their ever effort.  But if you are unable to stroll on the grounds of Chateau Ste Michelle, consider purchasing Chef Sarich's newest book, Chef in the Vineyard. Chef Sarich has selected Washington State's leading wineries and reviewed what makes their wines unique. Each wine summary is followed by recipes personally created by Chef Sarich to ideally match with that wine.

The book is a delight, informative and charming. It demystifies which-wine-with-what-food and makes it all fun and easy - all thanks to Chef Sarich, the perfect matchmaker of Chateau Ste Michelle.

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2010

Celebrating James Beard

There are many unforgettable talents in the world of food past and present but one of the greatest was James Beard.  Not only a skilled chef and a widely read writer, he was also an insightful teacher and mentor to hundreds.   

During his lifetime he always welcomed culinary students, fellow food authors and seasoned chefs as well as endless food and beverage professionals into his home and his kitchen in New York City. 

The many conversations and meals he encouraged there became the foundation for America’s new found sense of food.  Yet when James Beard died in 1985, many feared that the inspiring conversations he mentored among the steaming pans in his kitchen would be lost.

Peter Kump, who founded The New York Cooking School (now known as The Institute of Culinary Education) and Julia Child were both long time admirers of Beard’s work and influence.  Both were also passionately committed to continuing the legacy of his creative voice.

Working together with other professionals, including Wolfgang Puck, Jacques Pépin, Judith Jones and Larry Forgione, Peter and Julia were able to raise sufficient funds to purchase Beard’s beloved house and turned it into one of the world’s most famous culinary center.

Today the James Beard House is as busy as when James himself lived there with over 250 events being hosted annually on site.  James must be happy (and smiling as only he could) to know that wine glasses are still being raised beneath his roof and fine dinners and conversations shared just as when he was alive.

There’s only one problem though – you have to go to New York City to enjoy the creative atmosphere and world class cuisine.  But now there is an alternative: The Celebrity Chef Tour.  Name chefs are now joining with international vendors and select regional restaurants to invite diners to feast like kings right in their own city – all benefiting the programs of the James Beard Foundation.

A recent dinner in Seattle Washington brought celebrity chefs Richard Blais, Brian Scheehser and James B. Hassell together at the Columbia Tower Club for an unforgettable evening.  Over one hundred guests enjoyed a cornucopia of Canapés, Flaked Steak Pastrami, Dungeness Crab, Roasted Tomato Tarts, Salmon Graviox and Lamb with Japanese Pumpkins all beautifully matched to the outstanding wines of Chateau Ste Michelle.

Everyone present enjoyed the evening as the room filed with applause and many thanks to these three very talented chefs who graciously shared their skills to continue the great work of James Beard.  

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2010

Bonewerks CulinArte - Julia Would Approve

Julie Child was a devoted explorer of the culinary world. No matter where she was, she was always looking for the best product - that special ingredient which, when combined with insightful technique, would create an unforgettable dining experience.

Julie was precise. She wanted simply the best. One can only believe she would have raved about Bonewerks CulinArte, a true treasure of a company that produces a line of pure and all-natural classic sauces for both professional chefs and the creative home cook.

Julia adored all things relating to French cuisine. But she was also a practical American. If she had seen the care Corporate Chef Tom Sausen and his staff of fellow culinary professionals take in the preparation of each and every glace, she would surely have said, “Fantastique!”

They start (as Julie always did) with great stock. To make that stock, fresh bones are slowly oven-roasted to bring out their true rich flavor. Fresh vegetables, flavorful herbs and savory spices are added to the waiting water where the prepared bones have been transferred. Then slowly for over 24 hours, all the ingredients are simmered and skimmed to perfection in open kettles by master chefs.

The result: unbelievable divine. Consider the range: Glace de Veau (veal), Glace Poulet(chicken), Glace Carnard (duckling), Glace d'Agneau (lamb), Glace de Porc (pork), Glace de Homard (lobster) and Glace de Mire Poix (vegetarian).

 All are fat-free, sodium free, transfat free, preservative and additive free. That’s food as it should be. And top chefs agree as fine restaurants and elite cruise lines are among Bonewerks CulinArte’s many devoted clients.

If you have not savored these amazing sauces, don’t wait. They are perfect for the coming holidays. Your friends (like Julia) will rave but the secret will be all yours: Bonewerks CulinArte. 

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2010