Why a Pork Chop is No Longer a Pork Chop

In an effort to make meat more glamorous, the National Pork Board and the Beef Checkoff Program, with the blessing of officials at the United States Department of Agriculture, have changed more than 350 cuts of meat names.

These revised terms have also been accepted by the Uniform Retail Meat Identification Standards, or URMIS, which is used voluntary by most U.S. food retailers.

The new nomenclature emerged after two years of consumer research, which found that the labels on packages of fresh cuts of pork and beef are confusing, said Patrick Fleming, director of retail marketing for trade group National Pork Board.

There is only one problem – many of the new names simply aren’t accurate.

Take for example the conversion of “Pork Chop” to “Porterhouse Chop”. The term “porterhouse”, as every chef knows, has always been associated with a thick-cut steak.

And there’s a reason why. That reason is history, not a marketing decision by a well meaning committee.  

During the 1800’s, regional cattle pens, located outside of Boston near present day Cambridge, supplied the City with its meat. The hardy and hard-working cattlemen, who drove their cattle there, needed a place to wheel-and-deal their final selling price as well as a place to celebrate the dollars earned.

In 1837 Zachariah Porter answered their lodging and dining needs by opening the Porter House Hotel. His decision to do so was further strengthened, when in 184,3 the Fitchburg Railroad built direct tracks to the nearby cattle yards.

More cows meant more men, more hungry cattlemen (not pork men). Searching for a menu item, Porter thought of all the beef available so close at hand and so very fresh. The resulting cut was and is the large and very filling Porterhouse BEEF Steak – Beef, not pork.

Simply changing a name should not be a reason to discard culinary history. Perhaps an award should go instead to National Register of Historic Places for acknowledging this portion of American culinary history. Because the Hotel had been demolished in 1909, the NRHP had to look elsewhere for a representative symbol.  

They decided the best substitute site was the recently discovered Walden Street Cattle Pass. The Fitchburg Railroad built this underground tunnel in 1857 to discreetly move the growing herds of cattle from their railhead to the waiting holding pens without disturbing the developing gentility of the expanding neighborhood. 

Perhaps the National Pork Board and the Beef Checkoff Program should follow the National Historic Register's guidelines and learn to check history before they try to make history. 

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013

Tennis Master Andy Murray Scores with Scottish Hotel Purchase

Tennis ace Andy Murray has just bought the multi-million dollar luxury Cromlix House Hotel near his Scottish home, just north of Edinburgh. 

The US Open and Olympic champion plans to transform the grand Victorian manor house, where his brother Jamie married Colombian Alejandra Gutierrez in 2010, into a five-star destination.

Locates close to his home town of Dunblane in Stirlingshire, the refurbished hotel is scheduled to re-open next spring just ahead of the 2014 Ryder Golf Cup, which is being staged a short drive away at Gleneagles.

Murray said in a statement to the press: “By re-establishing Cromlix as a leading luxury hotel at the heart of the Dunblane community, we will be able to attract new visitors to the area, create a number of new jobs and focus on supporting other local businesses. I'm pleased to be able to give something back to the community I grew up in.”

The Cromlix House is set in 50 acres of breath-taking rolling woodlands and currently has 14 vintage bedroom suites, a beautiful wedding chapel, a baronial reception hall, two drawing rooms, a conservatory, a classic dining room, a well-stocked library and several meeting rooms.

The Eden Family, who have owned the estate for more than 30 years, is happy the property is passing to someone with a strong commitment to the local community. Future plans for the Hotel involve a Chez Roux restaurant.

Renowned Chef Albert Roux, owner of Le Gavroche in London, is one of a group of industry experts consulted by Inverlochy Castle Management International (ICMI), which will manage The Cromlix House on behalf of Murray.

ICMI’s managing director, Norbert Lieder, is confident that “'With Andy, we can create a very special hotel in his home community. While we aim to create a destination that attracts visitors from around the world, we are also determined to ensure it remains a venue of choice for local people”

Bravo, bravo, bravo!

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013

Oscar Movies Made in Hotels

Lights, Cameras – HOTELS!

Sunday is Oscars Night and that means nearly endless movie clips, past and present, will be shown. Captured in many of those clips will be some of the world’s greatest hotels. Here are just a few of the locations that helped to make these fine films Oscar winners:  

PARK HYATT TOKYO - Lost in Translation

Sofia Coppola won the Oscar for Best Writing of an Original Screenplay in 2003 in this her second film. Talk about talent! Also much talked about was the bar's stunning view from the 52nd floor high above Japan's capital.

Featured Cuisine

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LA MAMOUNIA MARRAKECH - The Man Who Knew Too Much

Alfred Hitchcock starred Doris Day and James Stewart as an American couple caught up in mystery and intrigue in 1956 in Morocco. The film was awarded an Oscar for Best Song when Doris sang Whatever Will Be, Will Be (Que Sera, Sera) in one of the Hotel's elegant suites. Later the song became her happy-go-lucky musical T.V. theme.

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FONTAINEBLEAU MIAMI BEACH - Goldfinger

Who can forget a young Sean Connery as a handsome and very buff James Bond sunning by the pool. And where was that stunning pool located? Why, at the Fontainebleau, of course, where no special effects were (and are) ever needed. Despite that fact, the film did go on to win the 1965 Oscar for Special Effects.

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GRAMERCY PARK HOTEL - Almost Famous

When William Miller (played by Patrick Fugit) goes on assignment after rock-and-roll's famous for the Rolling Stone Magazine, he encounters not only the rich, the talent and the strange, he also discovers the bohemian hotel that was the New York City home to stars (and near stars) of 1970s. Kate Hudson won her 2001 Oscar for Best Supporting Actress in this near documentary film.

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BEVERLY HILLS HOTEL - California Suite

Maggie Smith (who we have all come to love yet again as the reserved Lady Violet in BBC's Downton Abbey series) won an Oscar as Best Supporting Actress in this 1978 film as an over-the-hill actress who simply had to see-and-be-seen at this famed Hollywood Hotel.

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HOTEL DEL CORONADO - Some Like It Hot

Located on a stunning California beach, this 1959 film is a visual delight as well as a hallmark comedy about romance American style. Equally stunning are Orry-Kelly's costumes for which he won an Oscar. One can only wonder, however, had Marilyn Monroe not been wearing them to, umm, 'their best advantage', would the designer have won his award quite so easily.

Featured Cuisine

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013

Downton Abbey's Charlotte Russe Offers a Lesson in Compassion

While watching the fifth episode of Downton Abbey, Season 3, many of the show’s observant viewers noted that when the American Isobel Crawley hosted a thoughtful luncheon after the death of Lady Sybil, Ethel Parks, the disgraced housemaid, served a final course entitled a “Charlotte Russe”.

No dessert could have been more appropriate, especially after Lord Robert Crawley burst in, shocked that his family was being served by the former prostitute.  Christian charity was one thing, but in his eyes, the family’s reputation was quite another matter.

Yet, perhaps his mother, Violet Crawley, the Dowager Countess of Grantham, knew quite a bit more about both life and culinary history when she remarked dryly on seeing the Charlotte Russe, “It seems a pity to miss such a good pudding.”

For you see, the Charlotte Russe is one of those grand dishes that comes with an equally grand pedigree. Its creator was the legendary French Chef Marie Antonie Careme, who history remembers as “the King of Chefs, and the Chef of Kings”.

High praise that, and yet, it is totally true. He not only cooked for the leading powers of his day (Talleyrand, Napoleon, George IV and the Czar of Russia), he defined the toque as the classic chef’s hat, clarified the four “Mother Sauces” and established “service a la russe” as the accepted form of table service in polite society.

It was while he was working for the shy Czar Alexander I of Russia that he created the Charlotte Russe. “Russe”, of course, refers to Russia. (Can you say, “Make your employer feel important by naming something after his country”?)

But who is Charlotte? Charlotte was the sister-in-law of the Czar and was married to George III of England. (Yes, ‘that’ George of ‘Lost the American Colonies’ fame). After the fall of Napoleon, for whom he had worked earlier, Careme had been employed by King George’s son, the Prince of Wales (and future George IV).

While serving the English Prince, he had observed and had come to admire the quiet nobility of this former princess from the tiny German state of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, who managed both a mentally unstable royal husband and a family of 15 overly ambitious children(!) 

At the same time she also mentored the careers of Bach and Mozart and supported scientific discovery in the field of botany. The world famous Royal Kew Gardens exist today because of her keen support and insightful interest.

But her contributions do not stop there. Truly a woman ahead of her times, she founded orphanages and hospitals for expectant mothers. She supported education for women, especially for women “to whom life had not been kind”.

So you can see why Careme named a dish after this remarkable Queen, for he had seen enough of life himself to understand its many hardships and the need for rulers to address them.

Whether it was intentional or not, Julian Fellowes, the author of Downton Abbey, could not have picked a better dessert for the 'fallen’ housemaid, Ethel Parks, to serve. She was exactly the kind of women Queen Charlotte had sought to lift up and support. Even the other Downton ladies joined Isobel in her defense. Or as the grand Lady Violet note, neither a pudding (nor a life) are, should be foolishly wasted.

We can be thankful then that the esteemed Careme, in the cold snows of Russia, showed more awareness and compassion to the twists and turns of life by naming a dessert after this courageous Queen than did Lord Robert with his hot tempered moral lecture at the luncheon table.

Equally, the twist and turns of culinary history should often serve to remind us all within the Industry how even the simplest of actions, a kind word – a thoughtful gesture, can enrich lives beyond our knowing. And that, perhaps, is something to always remember, whether we serve upstairs or down.

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013

How to Save Downton Abbey Hollandaise Sauce Then AND Now

The culinary accurateness of the Downton Abbey Series should delight all professionals in the hospitality industry.

From soufflés to silver service, it is more than obvious that great research has gone into every aspect of the script where food is concerned.

But Downton's writers go even further. They show what can go amiss in the kitchen as well as what works. For example, sauces. Sauces are the wonder of cuisine. There are five major ones, entitled "the Mother Sauces", each with seemingly endless variations on their major taste themes. 

One such sauce is Hollandaise, an emulsified sauce in which egg yolks not only serve as the emulsifier, but also as a thickening agent. The final viscosity or thickness of the sauce is determined by how much fat is emulsified in and to what degree the egg yolks are cooked. 

The more the egg yolks are cooked, the thicker the hollandaise will be. However, the more the egg yolks are cooked, the more chance that the final result will be scrambled eggs, not a glorious hollandaise sauce. It's a delicate balance.

And that's just what happened to Ivy, the perky new kitchen maid, in the Dowwnton Abbey kitchen right before a grand meal. Even Daisy, the more experienced assistant cook, panicked when she saw the curdled sauce.

It's Alfred, the very new and very tall footman, who comes to the rescue. Prior to serving at Downton, he had worked as a hotel waiter, where he had caught glimpses of how master chefs save a separated or "broken" sauce.

He quickly strained out the curdle portion of the sauce and whisked one egg yolk and 1 tablespoon of water to the remaining sauce, still keeping it warm during the process. His fast reaction would please any chef and mark this young man as someone to promote. (Is Mrs. Patmore, Downton's cook, observing his flare, leading possibly to future plot developments?) 

A hundred years ago, chefs used double copper pots to make hollandaise sauce. Ouch - that's expensive and a royal pain to keep clean and polished. Today's chef has the advantage of improved cookware, such as Rose Bake and Oven Ware. 

Developed by Rose Levy Beranbau, author of the James Beard's acclaimed The Cake Bible and known as someone with a very sharp eye for technique to a diva level, her Rose Caramel Pot with double pouring spouts is a marvel for sauces sweet or savory.

Additionally, for those sauces requiring the use of a lift KitchenAid Mixer, no busy chef who cares about easy and elegance should be without the Rose BeaterBlade.

Its patented "Wind" design scraps the sides and bottom of the mixing bowl with every turn. When detached, it even doubles as a spatula.  

Alfred saved the day in Downton's Edwardian kitchen with his knowledge of the new and useful. If he lived today, he's surely reach for Rose's outstanding cookware and save the day once again. Tools and technique have always matter and they always will.

 Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013