The Very Best Cookbooks of 2012

As the year ends, it’s time to bring the best of 2012 forward into 2013.  And that, of course, includes cookbooks.

So here are the outstanding 2012 cookbooks that chefs worldwide have reviewed and declared a must addition to any culinary library.

FEVIKEN

Chef Magnus Nilsson serves a mere 12 covers in a tiny restaurant located on an expansive northern Swedish estate yet he is esteemed by chefs worldwide.

In large, this is due to his promotion of New Nordic Cuisine, which is stunning simple but never simplistic.

The cuisine presented focuses on seasonal ingredients as well as embraces the use of preserved vegetables and aged beef during the cold winter months.

Chef Magnus generously shares his insightful philosophy of food and life, which may well guide future culinary trends worldwide. Well done! 

JERUSALEM

Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi have also created an outstanding cookbook.

The book’s striking photographs capture the bold colors and contrasts of each Mid-Eastern dish. But do not think the dishes listed can only be created if exotic ingredients are available.

In fact, the famed restaurant of the same name, where each dish is served, is located in London.

Perhaps even more inspiring is the fact that the owners are both Israeli and Palestinian and work peacefully together.

Fantastic! Let us hope their cooperation and mutual creativity is a sign of things to come.

HUBERT KELLER’S SOUVENIRS

Memoirs written by chefs can sometimes be a disappointment, as they often relate generalized culinary experiences, rather than perceptive insights into the heart of the Industry.

Such is NOT the case with Chef Hubert Keller’s new book, Souvenirs: Stories and Recipes from My Life. His book contains an amazing 330 pages that provide an intimate glimpse of his extraordinary culinary life, that began when he was age 16 in Alsace, France at his father’s pastry shop, as well as 120 personal recipes with 300 supportive photographs.

Truly worth having, this book makes you want dine at his world renowned Fleur de Lys in San Francisco and then meet Chef Keller, who has set a new standard for culinary journal cookbooks. Congratulations!

THE FOOD OF SPAIN

Claudia Roden is far more that a mere recipe writer. Historian and critic Simon Schama has proclaimed her "No more a simple cookbook writer than Marcel Proust was a biscuit baker." 

High praise that.

In The Food of Spain, she interweaves hundreds of recipes from across Spain with parallel folk tales, proverbs, stories, poetry, and local history to provide a guide to not only delicious food but also to the diverse population and merging cultures that produced it.

Considered by many as the first new classic on Spanish cuisine to be written in the last 50 years, this is one book to be sure to purchase and then enjoy, and enjoy, and enjoy! A true culinary classic..

ASTRANCE: A COOK’S BOOK

Chef Pascal Barbot’s title says it all but presented in his own unique style via “narrative recipes”. In 50 recipes, he describes how and where he found the inspiration for his recipes, how he finds his products, how he uses, prepares and cooks them at his famed 25 seat restaurant, L’Astrance, in Paris.

Additionally, the "narrative recipes" are completed by texts by Chihiro Masui, who gives her tasting impressions as an introduction for the dishes presented in the book. Chef Barbot also reveals the secrets of his basic recipes in a 64-page separate booklet (including sauces, condiments, pastries!) in the deluxe version of the cookbook. 

His eager guests come from around the world, often reserving their tables many months in advance, to experience dining at L’Astrance, where ten original dishes are served each and every night.

This stunning book provides a glimpse of that world so creative that book dealers can’t keep the book in stock. Order your copy NOW! An astounding text.

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2012

Le Cordon Bleu Honors Julia Child's 100th Birthday with the Perfect Recipe

Happy Birthday Julia! And who better than Le Cordon Bleu in Paris to celebrate this remarkable woman's 100th birthday for it was at this, France's most esteemed culinary school, that Julia first formally studied cooking.

However, it has surprised some that Le Cordon Bleu chose to honor Madame Child by posting on their website a recipe for such a humble dish as Oeufs à la Bourguignonne’ or eggs poached in red wine. (See a link to their recipe, also known as Oeufs en Meurette, below).

Yet have no fear - their choice is so much what Julia was truly about – simple fresh ingredients, great technique and a touch of historic French flair.

Just consider that Oeufs à la Bourguignonne’ was originally from beautiful Burgundy (the source for the red wine used in the recipe) and associated there with a Cadet Rousselle, who built in the late 1700's an open-air walkway above his house that offered shelter to birds (remember that eggs are also a key ingredient in the dish).

His strange walkway was soon immortalized in a local song that quickly became a favorite of Napoleon’s far marching soldiers.

It remained so popular that after a mere 50 years Tchaikovsky in czarist Russia chose to use it as the theme for the towering Mother Ginger and her many children in his beloved holiday ballet, The Nutcracker.

If you consider that Julia, like a modern Mother Ginger, led so many ingénue American home cooks out of the dark and into the larger world of fabulous French flavors, you can see how perfect (and oh so perceptively French) Le Cordon Bleu's honorary choice of cuisine was.

And what better work of musical talent could there be to represent Julia Child's love of sweets than The Nutcracker ballet with its many food references, all dancing by in wonder and delight.

(Thank you, Meryl Streep, for both of these two amazing portrayal of Julia Child in the award winning movie, Julie and Julia).

Julia Child never had children of her own but she shared with millions the very best that she knew - how to enjoy life each and every day. What can we say for such a gift, but thank you! Julia, you are remembered and treasured! 

Oeufs à la Bourguignonne' Recipe 

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2012

Charlie Trotter Moves on to New Horizons

At his New Year’s Eve gala last Saturday Chef Charlie Trotter officially announced to guests and staff that in eight months he retiring (at least for a while) from his famed Chicago restaurant.

As word of his decision spread, many stories have appeared listing his many contributions to the improvement of the dining experience in America. Charlie Trotter was one of the first chefs to introduce a degustation or European style tasting menu, vegetarian menu choices and an increased awareness of local seasonal products including raw foods as well as a chef’s kitchen-side table.

And while few can doubt his impact on the front of the house, it must also be acknowledged that his influence on the back of the house was even greater.

Chef Trotter set a high standard of both professionalism and creativity for his staff. The young chefs lucky enough to have trained with him call his kitchen and his methods nothing short of perfection.

His belief in the combination of classical techniques and daily innovation created a passionate atmosphere that would become the hallmark of an entire generation of chefs who proudly list him on their resume as their mentor.

For those not fortunate enough to have worked with him, Trotter leaves a legacy of books that capture his desire for the best - be that the floor service, the wine offered or the cuisine presented.

He also sponsored many youth training programs that exposed hundreds of talented young people to opportunities within the hospitality industry 

Trotter’s future plans include travel and time to study philosophy and political history. Will he open another restaurant? He hasn’t ruled that out – but not at least at this point. While he travels and studies, we'll just have to wait to see the results (and the directions) of his new efforts take. 

Let’s wish him well. He is a great chef who made a profound difference – a difference that not only delighted his fortunate guests but made our industry a more creative and professional place for us all!

Thank You Charlie Trotter!

 Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2011

60 Minutes News Confuses Fine Cuisine with Junk Food as They Explore the Alchemy of Flavor Giant Givaudan

In a recently aired T.V. report (see it here) focusing largely on the Swiss flavoring giant Givaudan, the 60 Minutes News Hour provided an insightful glimpse into the amazing range and method of their operations. And then makes a major erroneous conclusion.

From California orchards to chef guided food trials in Hong Kong, the legendary Givaudan Firm is shown capturing thousands of flavor, many available only regionally in a limited basis in fresh form.

The program traces the flavors from fields to the hands of such well known chefs as Alvin Leung, who works with the new tastes to create innovative dishes that will delight diners worldwide.

But sadly, mid-report there is a turn in the story from flavors as pleasure to taste as a form of addiction. And this is where perhaps the reporters on the story should have spoken to a few chefs to gain a more accurate perspective on our Industry. 

The story visually implies a link between the efforts of fine chefs to that of companies who choose to produce tons of unhealthy commercial junk foods. Nothing could be more unjust or further from the truth.

Chefs around the world have and are working daily to raise an awareness of healthy dining and an increased use of fresh ingredients.

True professional chefs do NOT produce "junk food". They create cuisine.  

Bob Pelligrino, Givaudan's vice president of global strategy and business development, is truly a gentleman as he elegantly restrains his replies when he is unfairly pressed to admit that flavoring is the sole source of obesity.

Perhaps the reporters and the staff who created this misbalanced news story should have asked a chef or two how he or she would reply to such statements. Probably the professional chef, after wiping his or her hands, might reply that obesity results from misinformed food choices – something this very 60 Minutes report appears to be sadly guilty of.  

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2011

Warner's Food Landscapes Are Perfect for Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas Displays

Well, we should correct that title - actually Carl Warner's imaginative landscapes, crafted entirely from edible foods, are absolutely eye-catchers year round. 

And his stunning images created from piles of cheese and pieces of bread more than prove that point. Trained as a photographer, he uses silver fish fillets to create a simmering sea and bacon to reproduce a country waterfall.

Add in a skilled support staff at his London studio and the latest in digital imagery software and results are those that any chef can envy (and want to duplicate).

If you are inspired, check out his recent book, Food Landscape - it is truly amazing and can reminds us all that true creativity is boundless and exciting. 

Why not then create something different this holiday season and truly put your culinary talents 'on display'?

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2011