Eggs in Purgatory May Offer a Valuable Ecumenical Lesson to the Vatican

Roman Catholic Cardinals are now meeting in Italy to begin selecting a new pope. This esteemed group of gentlemen, for there is not a woman among them, will face many unsolved problems in the Church.

Chief among the difficult issues facing the next Holy Father will be the sexual abuse of children by priests, the noncompliance of the Vatican Bank with international monetary regulations, the stabilization of relationships with Islamic spiritual leaders, the recognition of women’s universal rights as well as massive internal security leaks to name only a few of the troubling topics.

It is the hope of many that the Cardinals’ papal choice will open the windows of the Vatican to the 21st Century, embracing as a result, both change and diversity – just like the Italian dish “Uova al Purgatorio”, also known as “Eggs in Purgatory”.

The heritage of this dish begins in Spain and North Africa where both Moorish and Jewish cooks called the dish “shakahouka”.

These innovative kitchen masters were among the first in the Old World to adopt the tomatoes, paprika, and chili peppers brought back from the New World by Spanish explorers. They also quickly added the eggplant -- which was brought from India by Portuguese merchants.

But sadly, many other individuals did not share their creativity, their ability to accept the new and explore its possible applications. Indeed, many felt that these new foods, all of which are contained in “Eggs in Purgatory”, were “vulgar and rustic” foods – unworthy of the upper classes.

As a result, these new culinary delights were enjoyed only by the lower classes, into which both Jews and Arabs had been forced by royal degrees as early as the 16^th century in both Spain and Italy.

Yet slowly over time tastes changed. By 1891 the Italian Pellegrino Artusi wrote, “Forty years ago, one hardly saw a tomato, an eggplant or fennel in the markets of Florence. They were once considered vile and foreign.”

Thankfully things have changed as proven by such now popular dishes as “Eggs in Purgatory.” Let us hope that the red robed Princes of the Church are not lost in a ‘purgatory’ of their own creation, frozen in tradition, unable to see the new ’ingredients’ offered by the 21^st Century – a century crying for change and ready for a broader, richer, more inclusive spiritual menu.

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013

Shooter's Sandwiches are the Perfect Food for Downton Abbey Viewing Parties

Cuisine in BBC’s very popular series, Downton Abbey, is divided into two distinct groups – elegant fare for those upstairs and far more traditional dishes for those below.  

Upstairs dishes were often prepared with a French flair at included pates, ices, elaborate gelatins and carved garnishes. Downstairs  dishes were simpler, more filling – in short, fuel for the then standard 18 hour work day.

There was, however,  one dish that combined both of these diverse worlds - a little known gem of English cuisine: The Shooter’s Sandwich.  Whether you were a Lord or Lady, gamekeeper or loader, this was fare enjoyed by all no matter the size or grandeur of one’s kitchen.

The creation of a Shooter’s sandwich is easy but the end result is impressive. To create the sandwich you will need a hardy, firm textured round loaf of bread, cooked meat and fresh cheese of choice, mushrooms, onions, mustard and a heavy weight as well as paper and string (more about that later).

Begin by carefully slicing the top of the load off to create a ‘cap’. Be sure to safe the top as you will need it later. Next hollow out the loaf, removing the interior bread without cutting through to the outer crust.

Once this has been done, tightly pack the interior of the loaf with layers of your selected meats, cheeses, vegetables and mustard (or other spread if so desired). Please note the word “tightly” here as you truly want to pack the loaf as full as possible.

Replace the top and place the loaf on a sheet of paper that (1) will not damage the food and (2) is large enough to wrap around the sandwich at least twice. Wrap the sandwich up and tie securely with string. 

Now comes the fun part.  In Edwardian days the wrapped sandwich was put into a food press and compacted down to form a firm sandwich that was easy to transport and that never fell apart.  For a shooting party, it was near perfect and everyone from Lord to Loaders enjoyed them.

Today, you can easily create the same effect with a few heavy bricks. The result, when cut into wedges, is very definitely English! 

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013 

Matched Cheese and Honey Makes the Perfect Culinary Gift for Father’s Day

What with the financial fears that are currently darkening the skies over Europe and the mindless phrases being spoken by some American politicians, it definitively seems time for a sweeter reference to reality.

And what’s sweeter (and more grounded) than a great cheese and a divinely delightful honey, especially for Dad’s Day.  But the secret to the greatest culinary enjoyment is making the best match – just as in life. 

So consider ‘marrying’ a clover honey with a Swiss Alpine or an Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Another great ‘relationship’ is a hardy buckwheat honey with an earthy Gouda cheese.  In each case, the contrast between the warm broad flavor of the cheese and the nutty character of the cheese is, well, a perfect match.

For those who prefer a closer balance of tone and flavor, there are the often overlooked bright delight of citrus honeys, which go well with a wide range of cheeses, including Camembert, Gruyere, Brie and mild Bleu.

Yet if sweetness is your desire while celebrating Father’s Day, honeys crafted from wildflowers capture an overt sweet taste that seem perfectly matched to Ricotta cheeses.    Its soft spreadable nature makes this duet literally dance across one’s palette, especially if topped with fresh fruit.

Just remember, that no matter which honey and cheese combo you prefer, on Father's Day Dad is the one who is simply matchless!

 Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2012

Italian Cheese Industry Suffers Major Damage from Earthquake

Northern Italy was struck over the past weekend by a massive 6.0 earthquake. Not only have six people sadly died and many others injured, but Italy’s esteemed Parmesan Reggiano cheese industry has been severely damaged.

The great cheese houses of the regions have lost over 300,000 giant cheese wheels, valued at over 8,000,000 EUR or $10,045,604 USD.

As far back as the era of Renaissance and Leonardo da Vinci, there have been questions as to why northern Italy suffers such severe earthquakes.

Today we know that the African tectonic plate, upon which Italy rests, pushes up and under the European tectonic plate, forming the Swiss Alps. The resulting pressure forces the former seafloor up, creating the high alpine peaks, complete with embedded see life fossils.

The price of Parmesan Reggiano will likely soon be equally high, so consider calling your supplier and laying in an additional store of this prize cheese.

Just be sure to remember, whether your menu includes Parmesan Cheese Baskets or Eggplant Parmesan, that many in Italy’s famed cheese industry are suffering, so consider contributing to the Italian Red Cross so that life (and cheese production) can return to normalcy. Viva Italia!

Post Note, May 29, 2012: Poor Italy! Another massive earthquake of 5.8 magitude hit northern Italy around 9AM local time today.

With many individuals in school or at work in already weakened structures, the death count has risen to at least 15.

Area cheese makers, who were then working to salvage their great Parmesan Reggiano wheels, have had to evacuate their warehouses as the ceilings and lights over head shook once again with frightening force.

Let's hope Mother Nature takes a rest very soon and grants a peaceful night of undisturbed sleep to all within the area.

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2012

You Can’t Have a Derby Day Horse Racing Party without Great Food and Cocktails

Soon it will be time for the running of the Kentucky Derby where fine food and memorable drinks (not to mention unforgettable hats) will mix with the thunder of some of the world’s  greatest racing horses.

In Louisville the most popular drink on Saturday’s Derby Day will be the Mint Julep. You simply can’t do Derby Day without one:

Mint Julep

Yield: 1 (12 ounce) cocktail
Preparation time: 10 minutes. Start mixing at least by 4:30 for 5:00 post time. 

Ingredients

• 8 to 10 mint leaves
• 1 sprig of mint for garnish
• 1 tablespoon of sugar, more or less to taste
• 1 1/2 ounce clean fresh Kentucky spring water
• 3 ounces premium Bourbon (try Woodford Reserve) 
• Crushed ice

 Directions

Rinse the mint but don’t dry.

Put the leaves in a 12 ounce cocktail glass & pour the sugar on top.

Muddle them together with a muddler or the handle of a wooden spoon.

When the leaves & wet sugar begin to turn to a mushy paste, add the water & the bourbon

Stir with a fork until the sugar dissolves.

Top with crushed ice, garnish with the sprig of mint.

Serve, if possible, in a silver tumbler.

Now that you have a drink in hand, it’s time to add a food to the fun as legendary as your drink – Hot Browns from, but of course, the Brown Hotel in Louisville, Kentucky by Chef Fred K. Schmidt in 1926. It is a creative variation of the traditional brunch classic the Welsh rarebit. Your guests will love it:

Derby Hot Browns

Yield: 35 appetizers

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup butter
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• 1⁄8 tsp. white pepper
• 1 cup 2% milk
• 1/2 cup chicken broth
• 1/2 cup sherry or additional chicken broth
• 1⁄3 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese
• 1 cup shredded Parmesan cheese, divided
• 35 slices snack pumpernickel bread, toasted
• 1 1/2 lbs. sliced cooked turkey
• 4 medium tomatoes, halved and sliced
• 12 cooked bacon strips, crumbled

Directions

In a large saucepan, melt butter over low heat.

Stir in flour, salt & pepper until smooth; gradually add the milk, broth & sherry.

Bring to a boil; cook & stir for 2 minutes or until thickened.

Stir in the cheddar cheese & 1⁄3 cup Parmesan until cheese is melted.

Remove from the heat.

Place toast slices on a baking sheet.

Top each with turkey, sauce mixture, tomatoes and bacon.

Sprinkle with remaining Parmesan.

Broil 3-4 in. from the heat for 3-4 minutes or until cheese is melted.

Have fun with both and may the best horse win!

Post Note: If you want to expand your celebration to include all the cuisine made famous at the two other racces that complete the Triple Crown in racing, be sure to enjoy:

From the Preakness Stakes Race in Baltimore, Maryland - The Black Eyed Susan Cocktail (named after the state flower) and Preakness Crab Cakes.

From the Belmont Park Race in Elmont, New York - The Belmont Breeze Cocktail (just watch those horses wizz by) and Manhattan Clam Chowder

Post Note, April 5, 2012: “I’ll Have Another”, the horse purchased for a mere $11,000, just beat the other million dollar horses in this year’s Running of the Roses, i.e., the Kentucky Derby.

Ridden by an almost unknown jockey, “I’ll Have Another” bided his time in the middle of the pack and then blazed past the leaders in the final furlong to win to the roar of thousands.

It was an amazing feat – one not equaled in any of the 138 runnings of the race of race. So, if your day is hard, prepare yourself one of these famous racing cocktails and then raise your glass to toast the little horse that came from behind and remember we can all do the same. Have a great day!

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2012