Like Water for Choclate uses Magical Realism to capture the transformative qualities of everyday food and drink into something more. Also consider reading (and enjoying) Joanne Harris' amazing Chocolat.
So here’s the creative menu developed by the White House’s talented Executive Chef Cris Comerford, who deftly blended the cuisine of these two countries together - nations that have long been allies and friends during the best and the worst of times:
First Course:Crisped halibut with potato crust, served on a bed of braised baby kale from the White House garden. Shaved Brussels sprouts, Applewood smoked bacon
Salad Course:Spring garden lettuces with shallot dressing and shaved radish, cucumbers and avocados
Main Course:Bison Wellington, pairing the pastry case created for the British soldier and statesman, the Duke of Wellington with American buffalo tenderloin from North Dakota, instead of beef. Red wine reduction, French beans, cipollini onion
Dessert:Steamed lemon puddingwith IdahoHuckleberry Sauce and Newtown Pippin apples
And the setting couldn’t have been better – a beautiful spring evening in a tent under the sparkling stars on the White House's South Lawn. Well done and bravo!
Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2012
Currently the American Republican Party is embroiled(pardon the pun) is a cauldron of issues that seem better suited to a Mad Men script set in the 1960s then a critical election of the modern era.
Most recently the Republican spokesperson Rush Limbaugh, who now claims he’s only an entertainer, has decided to defame a law student from Georgetown University (more about 'George' in just a moment) who spoke up for women’s health issues before the American Congress.
Instead of honoring the courage of Sandra Fluke, Limbaugh decided to slander this individual with such vile sexual language and imagery, it simply isn’t worth repeating here.
Starting with the President down to the average person on the street the response has been shock and outrage to such a vilification and a growing demand for an authentic apologyfrom this nationally popular radio commentator.
Limbaugh in short, who claims to speak for liberty and freedom, does not.
One has only to remember the standards by which George Washington himself lived – it’s no small irony that Ms. Fluke attends a University whose name has come to be identified with America’s first president and who risk his own life and fortune to defend the young nation and its laws.
No book better highlights the high standards of civility, that Limbaugh has chosen to discard, than in the new book Dining with the Washingtons. Far more than a mere recipe book, this outstanding text edited by Stephen A. McLeod, lays forth for readers the feast of courtesy that George Washington and the first First Lady offered to all.
Those who dined at Washington’s Mount Vernoncountry estate represented the best and the brightest of their era– no matter their nation, political belief or sex.
French gentlemen dined with rebel soldiers and ladies spoke freely to the country’s leaders on matters of concern to the nation.
Diversity was accepted and encouraged – both in cuisine and conversation. And though the sad question of slavery was still to be resolved, Washington was proud of the talents of the nation’s first celebrity chef, Hercules.
Dining with the Washingtons is a must-have visual treasure and historical guide for any true culinary professional or informed reader.
It is a return, in these turbulent times, to a gentler and perhaps wiser age when civility’s value was better understood as a necessity and not a mere social frill.
Every action done in company ought to be with some sign of respect to those that are present.
Use no reproachful language against any one; neither curse nor revile.
Let your conversation be without malice or envy.
Mock not nor jest at anything of importance.
Speak not evil of the absent, for it is unjust.
Those of us who are lucky enough to be in the hospitality industry understand these principles by heart. Indeed, our very industry is named after the concept of graciousness – a graciousness that turns no one away, a philosophy that welcomes all, just as the first President of America did to his hilltop home.
In these difficult times, our hotels and restaurants should echo that understanding - that democracy is a feast that welcomes all and excludes none.
The dishes served at that feast of freedom may differ, given the history and heritage of each nation, but that fact should never alter the right of all to join in the feast to which each human is inalienably invited.
One can only hope that persons such a Rush Llimbaugh pause and consider the bitter fare of their words before they sour and soil their own souls.
There is a better wiser feast to serve, one Washington knew well – one of fellowship, respect and cooperation. The future is before us – let us never dine on or serve to others dishes created from past hates or future fears.
Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2012
Currently Republican Party members in the United States are watching an interesting array of candidates all vying for their party’s 2012 nomination against the popular U.S. President Barack Obama.
After 19 angry debates the field has narrowed to four still eager contestants – Ron Paul, Newt Gingrich, Mitt Romney and Rick Santorum.
And while their suggested policies for improving existing economic conditions ranging from voluntary self-deportation for non-citizens to a fantasy manned lunar space colony, perhaps their political points of view (and personalities) are most clearly reflected in their choice of favorite foods.
Ron Paul loves healthy organic soups and salads. Mitt Romney enjoys traditional New England baked beans while Rick Santorum likes a plain grilled cheese sandwich. And Newt Gingrich, well, he loves ice cream with everything on it.
The above is not exactly a menu (or an array of candidates) that will likely delight insightful diners or thoughtful Republican Convention delegates as they contemplate the actual needs of the 21st century.
It seems there are only two choices possible – ones that any experienced chef would recommend: (1) change the menu or (2) get ready for an empty dining room (and a massive electoral loss).
The results of the American presidential election is a matter that effects more than just the United States. As every chef who sources his or her products from around the world knows, we live within a very connected community on this small planet.
It is vital that the American people reach beyond a simplistic diet of phrases and political rhetoric to a larger cuisine of inclusive understanding and mutual respect.
Without such a choice, well, we're all going to need a very big drink in the very near future to make it through the darkening evening of our very legitimate concerns.
Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2012
At his New Year’s Eve gala last Saturday Chef Charlie Trotter officially announced to guests and staff that in eight months heretiring (at least for a while) from his famed Chicago restaurant.
As word of his decision spread, many stories have appeared listing his many contributions to the improvement of the dining experience in America. Charlie Trotter was one of the first chefs to introduce a degustation or European style tasting menu, vegetarian menu choices and an increased awareness of local seasonal products including raw foods as well as a chef’s kitchen-side table.
And while few can doubt his impact on the front of the house, it must also be acknowledged that his influence on the back of the house was even greater.
Chef Trotter set a high standard of both professionalism and creativity for his staff. The young chefs lucky enough to have trained with him call his kitchen and his methods nothing short of perfection.
His belief in the combination of classical techniques and daily innovation created a passionate atmosphere that would become the hallmark of an entire generation of chefs who proudly list him on their resume as their mentor.
For those not fortunate enough to have worked with him, Trotter leaves a legacy of books that capture his desire for the best - be that the floor service, the wine offered or the cuisine presented.
He also sponsored many youth training programs that exposed hundreds of talented young people to opportunities within the hospitality industry
Trotter’s future plans include travel and time to study philosophy and political history. Will he open another restaurant? He hasn’t ruled that out – but not at least at this point. While he travels and studies, we'll just have to wait to see the results (and the directions) of his new efforts take.
Let’s wish him well. He is a great chef who made a profound difference – a difference that not only delighted his fortunate guests but made our industry a more creative and professional place for us all!
In a strange twist of fate, this year’s holiday model of the White House crafted from gingerbread and white chocolate, echoes the reality of the U.S. President Obama. As of today, the President is there alone in the beautifully decorated White House (except for the family dog Bo) waiting for conservative members of the House of Representative to address the much desired payroll tax cut.
Perhaps the beauty of this year’s amazing gingerbread White House, created by the Executive Pastry Chef Bill Yosses with the thoughtful guidance of First Lady Michelle Obama, will offer him some additional holiday cheer.
Working from the original architectural drawing for the White House, Chef Yosses has created yet another stunning holiday masterpiece – this time weighing over 400 pounds!
Gingerbread house construction bgean in late September when sheets of gingerbread were baked using the traditional gingerbread recipe long used by the White House kitchen (see recipe below). This allowed ample time for the gingerbread sheets to harden before they were cut into wall and floor panels ready for assembling.
With Assistant Pastry Chef Susie Morrisonacting as a supervising construction contractor in the famed China Room, where the various presidential china collections are displayed, the model began to take form. When finally completed this year’s culinary wonder was displayed on a marble-topped console table in the State Dining Room.
At the suggestion of First Lady Michelle Obama, the 2011 replica included chocolate models of the White House culinary garden complete with beehives and sheltered vegetables rows.
Their thoughtful display was a wonderful way to say yet once again that healthy eating should be something all American shoould focus on each and enjoy every day.
Made with ample royal icing, his addition to the scene surely brought a smile to the over 85,000 pre-Christmas Day White House visitors. Now that’s a full house any hotel would envy!
Yet come Christmas Day, it’s currently unclear if the President of the United States will be joining his wife and daughters in Hawaii as he waits in Washington DC for the conservative Republicans of the House to address the nation’s urgent needs.
Perhaps those hesitant members of the House should remember what every great chef knows by heart and something so clearly declared to Scrooge by the ghost of his deceased business partner in Charles Dickens' memorable morality story, A Christmas Carol:
We in the hospitality industry craft, not with laws and legistation, but in sugar and with cuisine and service, but these are only a means of expression.
The true meaning of our profession hinges on the quality of our choices, the depth of values that we choose to express though our everyday actions. That said, may we all, like the newly enlightened Scrooge, keep that spirit of compassion within our hearts all year long as we serve and create!
Happy Holidays!
White House Holiday Gingerbread Cookies with Royal Icing
Ingredients for the Cookies
8 oz (2 sticks) butter, soft 2 cups dark brown sugar 2 eggs, large 1 cup molasses 7 cups All Purpose flour ¼ tsp ginger ground ¼ tsp cinnamon, ground 1 tsp baking soda ¼ tsp baking powder 1/4 tsp salt Lemon zest from 1 lemon Orange zest from 1 orange
Method 1. Cream butter and sugar in an electric mixer for a minimum 5 minutes. 2. Add eggs one by one, then molasses. 3. Put mixer on slow, sift spices, salt, baking powder and baking soda with flour then add these dry ingredients in three increments and scrape bowl each time. 4. Add zests and mix until incorporated, but do not over mix. 5. Remove dough from bowl and place on plastic wrap and spread to 1" thickness over wrap and cover with another sheet of plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight. 6. Remove dough from refrigerator and roll out a small piece on a floured surface. This dough is very wet, so add flour when necessary to prevent sticking and turn over often. 7. Roll out to 1/8 to ¼ inch thickness for cookies. Cut out Gingerbread shapes. 8. Bake for 12 minutes at 350°F for cookies; 25 minutes or more for ornaments or gingerbread houses. 9. Decorate with Royal Icing
Royal Icing
Ingredients 2 cups Confectioner's sugar, sifted 1 egg white 1 tsp lemon juice
Method Mix with paddle attachment on electric blender (or by hand) for 5 minutes. If icing is too thick, add more lemon juice or a little egg white to desired consistency.
Post Note, 12/23/2011: Perhaps the conservative Republicans of the U.S. House of Representatives have heard the ghosts of Christmas past, present and future as they have finallyagreed to pass the expension of the payroll tax cut.
With additional dollars to spend millions of people will enjoy the Holidays much more in warmer homes and many welcoming restaurants. And so perhaps now we can all return to the true meaning of these final winter days, expressed so well in the closing words of Dickens' belovedA Christmas Carol.
Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2011