The Best Bread in Paris!

One cannot think of Paris without also thinking of French bread or more correctly beautiful baguettes. Long and tapered, elegantly crisp on the outside yet cloud light on the inside, they reflect the wonderful duality that is the City of Lights itself.

So as you might expect, the quality of the city’s famed baguettes is a matter of no small importance to the citizen (and the government) of Paris.

This year Lyne Cohen-Solal, the Deputy Mayor in charge of Paris’ trade and crafts, headed a skilled jury that was composed of personalities from the Industry and catering sector, including past winners as well as every day citizens of the city.  

Once assembled, the judges initially accepted 202 rods or”wands” of bread as the Paris bakers refer to them.  Each was banded with a number to insure equally fair evaluation. Fifty-two were then quickly rejected as not meeting the entry requirements of size and weight.

To win the final grand prize, registered baguettes had to be between 55 and 65 cm (21.6-25.5 inches), weigh between 250 and 300 grams (8.8-10.5 ounces) and have a salt content level of 18 grams per kilo of flour. Now those are precise standards but, after all, this Paris and this is about bread!

In the end 151 sticks (another trade phrase that the city’s bakers use) were accepted for consideration. Now the fun began. For the next few afternoon hours, every one of those 151 rods was smelled, visually evaluated and finally tasted. And the Grand Prize winner was…

Ridha Khadher, the artisan baker of Au Paradis du Gourmand in the City’s 14^th arrondissement, a district that had never won the prestigious award before. Indeed, the award had previously been claimed for six years in a roll by esteemed bakers in the Montmartre section of the City.

But, as the unanimous final vote demonstrated, things (especially those of a culinary nature) are always subject to change.  Just consider this year’s winner, Ridha Khadher.

Unlike many previous winners, he was not born within the culinary heritage of France. Instead, he was born in Tunisia and came to Paris when 15 to seek a better life. But  he would be the first to tell any other insightful baking chef, success did not come overnight.

It took many jobs and many long hours over 24 years of work to prefect his winning recipe. His secret he says is not a change of ingredients because then what would be produced would not be a true baguette. Instead, the secret is hard work and insightful skill. What chef wouldn’t agree with that?

His award winning (more on that in a moment) bread require 24 hours of labor and attention to create, compared to the traditional five hours used by many other bakers. Many of those additional hours are involved in hand kneading and patiently waiting as the dough matures and ripens.

As a result, his bakery can only produce between 800 to 1,000 wands of bread a day but they are more than worth the wait.  Some of these much sought after loafs are now going to be delivered daily to the Élysée Palace as that is part of the winning prize along with € 4,000 (USD $5,230). Very Nice!

When asked if the money (and the fame) would encourage him to expand or modernize, the 42 year old master baker just smiled and said no. Life (and his bread) are fine just as they are - thank you.

Now that’s truly winning.

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013

Celebrate Easter All Year Long with French Cloche Bells

Not everyone celebrates Easter with chocolate Easter eggs. The French have a charming tradition that honors the Spring Holiday with both sweet chocolate and savory bread.

During the medieval period, the Church in Rome dictated that from Good Friday to Easter Sunday all village church bells in France would be silenced to honor the liturgy of Christ’s suffering.

And while this might seem a noble idea in the Vatican, it was one that caused great concern in France’s small rural towns.  

For you see, in a world without clocks and phones, the church bells regulated the activities of the everyday worker.  Their tolling marked the start of day before the sun rose and its end as the star came out. Without their rising, life was without order or focus.

To justify their silence, local priests created a legend that the bells, high in their church towers, actually flew through the air to Rome on the eve of Good Friday carrying all the sins of the villages with them.

Once in Rome, the reigning Pope would absolve the collective sins and send the bells flying back through the air, ready to ring loud and clear on Easter morning. 

Over time what was once thought of as fact transformed itself into a charming tradition, one now celebrated by the French through the exchange of chocolate bells on Easter morning.

These sweet bells, or “cloche” as they are called in French, are often molded and elaborately decorated. But that is not the only “cloche” honored in French cuisine.

Since medieval times, French bakers have used clay cloche or bell pans to bake their bread in. Their design insures a crisp crust and a cloud soft interior. In other words, a perfect French loaf.

Commercial made cloche pans are available and are excellent. You can also create a personal cloche from unglazed terra cotta pots.

Add a stainless steel ring hook to seal the planter drainage hole. Oil the base plate and preheat in the oven before adding your raised dough. (Be careful when transferring the dough not to touch the heated the lower plate).

Bake at the temperature and time stated in your recipe. The results will make you want to celebrate Easter all year long!

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013

Easter Dove Shaped Bread Marks a Flaming End to Lent in Florence Italy

No one, but no one, celebrate Easter like the citizens of Florence, Italy.

In a tradition that's centuries old, teams of white oxen, bedecked in flowers (after all, the word Florence literally means the “City of Flowers”) draw a massive and mysterious 30 foot wooden structure, which is over 500 years old, through the cobblestone streets.

This Easter tradition honors Pazzino de’ Pazzi, who in 1097 was the first soldier to scale the walls of Jerusalem during the First Crusade. (Hopefully in more modern times, we will be more mature as citizens of a mutually shared planet and not hurl rocks and stones at each other.) 

But in 1097, Pazzino was climbing the Holy City’s walls and was later given three fire-striking flint stones from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre as a reward for his achievement, which considering their source, made them holy relics in the 11^th  century.

Being a citizen of Florence, Pazzino placed the newly acquired relics, on returning to his beloved City State, in the care of the Church, what has honored them ever since on Easter morning.

Then as now, when the tall antique tower reaches the Piazza del Duomo, a Mass Pasqua will have just been completed. With its arrival, the real fun begins in what the Florentines call the Festival of Scoppio del Carro.

A long fuse wire will have been attached from the Duomo's high altar to the elaborate wooden tower outside. A dove, symbolizing the hope for peace and harmony, is then ignited at the altar and, with fire and sparkles, shoots down the length of the Cathedral towards the outside tower.

The flaming dove then flies into the tower, which is affectionately called “the cart” by the Florentines, to the delight of thousands gathered outside. Inside the wooden structure are hidden fireworks, which then ignite and shoot off to the cheers of the citizens, Everyone is grateful that the dietary limitations of the Lenten season are finally over as the flaming dove flies back to the Cathedral altar.

And how do the Florentine citizens celebrate their new freedom to dine without restraints? Why, with a slice of Florence's famed Colomba dove shaped Colomba bread.

And while many might say, this legendary loaf is only vaguely bird-shaped, the Florentines might reply,

"Don't worry. Life, like the flaming dove of the Cathedral, shoots by all too quickly. The outlines of one’s life don't matter all that much - as long as we have the courage to truly savor the elegant contents of both the loaf and life itself!"

Happy Easter! May your life always be full of flavor!

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013

Eggs in Purgatory May Offer a Valuable Ecumenical Lesson to the Vatican

Roman Catholic Cardinals are now meeting in Italy to begin selecting a new pope. This esteemed group of gentlemen, for there is not a woman among them, will face many unsolved problems in the Church.

Chief among the difficult issues facing the next Holy Father will be the sexual abuse of children by priests, the noncompliance of the Vatican Bank with international monetary regulations, the stabilization of relationships with Islamic spiritual leaders, the recognition of women’s universal rights as well as massive internal security leaks to name only a few of the troubling topics.

It is the hope of many that the Cardinals’ papal choice will open the windows of the Vatican to the 21st Century, embracing as a result, both change and diversity – just like the Italian dish “Uova al Purgatorio”, also known as “Eggs in Purgatory”.

The heritage of this dish begins in Spain and North Africa where both Moorish and Jewish cooks called the dish “shakahouka”.

These innovative kitchen masters were among the first in the Old World to adopt the tomatoes, paprika, and chili peppers brought back from the New World by Spanish explorers. They also quickly added the eggplant -- which was brought from India by Portuguese merchants.

But sadly, many other individuals did not share their creativity, their ability to accept the new and explore its possible applications. Indeed, many felt that these new foods, all of which are contained in “Eggs in Purgatory”, were “vulgar and rustic” foods – unworthy of the upper classes.

As a result, these new culinary delights were enjoyed only by the lower classes, into which both Jews and Arabs had been forced by royal degrees as early as the 16^th century in both Spain and Italy.

Yet slowly over time tastes changed. By 1891 the Italian Pellegrino Artusi wrote, “Forty years ago, one hardly saw a tomato, an eggplant or fennel in the markets of Florence. They were once considered vile and foreign.”

Thankfully things have changed as proven by such now popular dishes as “Eggs in Purgatory.” Let us hope that the red robed Princes of the Church are not lost in a ‘purgatory’ of their own creation, frozen in tradition, unable to see the new ’ingredients’ offered by the 21^st Century – a century crying for change and ready for a broader, richer, more inclusive spiritual menu.

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013

2013 Governors Ball Menu Is a True Oscar Winner

After all the Oscars are handed out at this year’s Academy Awards, those in the know will head to the Governors Ball where 1,500 lucky guests will dine on what must be the ultimate petite plate dinner, all thanks to Master Chef Wolfgang Puck.

Just consider, for example, the skill to create and serve all the following to all the Stars:

Tray Passed Hors D’Oeuvres

Spicy Tuna Tartare, Sesame Miso Cone, Pickled Ginger, Bonito Flakes
Mini Kobe-Style Burger, Aged Cheddar, Remoulade
Vegetable Spring Rolls, Sweet & Spicy Dipping Sauce
Smoked Salmon Oscars, Dill Crème Fraiche, Caviar
Vegan Pizza with Pesto and Grilled Vegetables
Caprese Cone, Basil Flowers
Shrimp Fritter, Spicy Coconut
Steak Tartare, Parmesan Toast Sandwich
Duck Wonton, Orange Mustard
Kombu Chip, Edamame Guacamole
Smoked Salmon “Pizza” Cones

Sushi & Shellfish Station

Cocktail Platters
Truffle & Parmesan Grissini, Black Truffle Aioli Dip (v)
Winter Fruit “Caprese”
Bacon Wrapped Dates
Rosemary Spiced Nuts and Pineapple

Small Plates Cold
Japanese Baby Peach Salad
Chinois Chicken Salad, Wontons, Chinese Mustard Dressing
Kale Salad, Grilled Artichoke, Lemon Vinaigrette
Tuna Niçoise Style, Green Olives, Fennel and Caper-Anchovy Vinaigrette
Farro, Apple, Beet, Spiced Walnut

Small Plates Hot
Chicken Pot Pie, Black Truffles
Chestnut Tortellini, White Truffles
Snake River Farms New York Steak, Matsutake Mushrooms
Baked Potato & Caviar
Steamed Red Snapper, Thai Spice
Truffle Macaroni and Cheese
Lobster with Black Bean Sauce
Slow-Braised Lamb Shank “Shepherd’s Pie”
Beluga Lentils, Cauliflower, Baby Vegetables

Desserts
Created by Pastry Chef Sherry Yard
Crystal Vacherin
Melange of Berries and Crème
Sugar Chandeliers, Hand Piped Strands of Royal Icing
Cherry on Top
Chocolate Pudding, Cherries, Chocolate Crumble, Vanilla Cream
Mango Crumble
Mango Brunoise, Passion Mango Cream
Bon Bons
Raspberry Lychee and Milk Chocolate Marzipan
Snowball
Ginger Meringue Dome, Cassis Sorbet, Yogurt Whip, Lavender Macaron Confetti, Blueberries
Baked to Order Chocolate Souffle Cake with Shaved Espresso Ice
Huckleberry Macarons
Ribbons of Shaved Ice with Frozen Grapes
Chocolate Crème Brulée with Raspberries

Cookies, Candies, Chocolates and such…
Pistachio and Marzipan Pavé
Concord Grape Lollipops
Everyone’s Oscar Favorite Peanut Butter Chocolate Pop Rock Pop
Caramels || Violet Velvet Truffles || Chocolate Shortbread
The General Lee Cookie – Candied Walnut – Milk Chocolate Chip - Coconut
Yuzu-Lemon Bars || Blueberry Financier Pops

And the cuilnary winner is....

EVERY HARD WORKING CHEF AND STAFF MEMBER!

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013